A poet of gastronomy
Andoni Luis Aduriz, at the age of 36, is one of the most important, contemporary chefs in the world. Owner and chef of "Mugaritz Restaurant" (in San Sebastian, the capital of the Basque Country in Spain, with the most Michelin stars per capita in the world), Aduriz is one of Spain’s “Revolutionary Chefs” who, lead by renowned chef Ferrán Adriá, have managed to shift the attention of international gastronomy in the last decade from tired France to passionate Spain.
Aduriz has termed his cuisine “technomotion”, combining the words technology and emotion, creating dishes that tantalise not only the palate but also the mind.
He has been characterised and not wrongly, a poet! We met him two days before the Golden Hats award ceremony, organised by Athinorama magazine, at Aegli Zappion, in Athens. He talked to us about gastronomy, style and … Revolution.
By Thimios Voulgaris
1. What is it that makes contemporary Spanish cuisine so progressive?
Do you consider yourselves pioneers? Revolutionaries?
Spanish cuisine dared to rediscover “herself” mainly due to the boost she was given by Ferrán Adriá. Removed from rigid, established and conventional practices, she surpassed the limitations of the past. Pioneers are those who introduce new and practical inventions. We could in this sense sometimes consider ourselves, pioneers. Revolutionaries? Definitely yes!
2. Why do you think eating at your restaurant is considered an “experience”?
Atmosphere and team spirit. Very often, before daily preparation for receiving our clients begins, I remind waiters that our work is not to sell food but feelings. We are not here to feed the stomach but the soul. When this is your objective, the resulting ambience and service provided create a unique environment.
3. How familiar are you with the Greek gastronomical scene?
This was one of the major incentives of my visit to Greece. To meet colleagues and find out for my self the tendencies and “movements” that are taking place here. At this point, I have not yet formed an opinion and I would rather not express one without the adequate knowledge. From what friends and other Chefs have told me however I know that there are some very important professionals, very good ingredients and also the interest in progressive gastronomy is rising.
4. Can Greek Cuisine develop in a similar way that Spanish cuisine did?
I truly believe that your country’s cuisine should and indeed will develop only if this is considered beneficial by Chefs and the public. However we should never forget that very often internal rejuvenation is more important than development. It is crystal clear to me that whatever the progress, it should be Greek and not Spanish.
5. Who are the Chefs you admire and respect the most and why?
There are many known and unknown chefs I admire. Young, veterans, European, American, Australian, Asian… the list is endless and I would probably unjustly leave some out. If I did have to name some of them however, they would be the chefs working in the top 50 restaurants in the world. And that would just be the beginning.
6. How far do aesthetics influence your work? From the decoration of a plate to the interior decoration of the restaurant.
When it is pleasing, balanced and in search of beauty, aesthetics play a catalytic role in creating the overall atmosphere. Personally, I believe that the end result, the goal is equally important with the appearance and therefore, food should also carry its own elegance, starting with the way it is cooked.
7. Does style influence gastronomy?
Gastronomy is influenced by many elements; this is the case with any human activity.
8. What are your plans for the immediate future?
Even as we speak I am working on and thinking about new concepts for the restaurant. We are also planning various projects in cooperation with private companies, technological centers and universities that will keep us busy for the next couple of years. In my ideal future however, I hope to get the chance to rest and travel, to read and to absorb with all my five senses everything life has to offer.
