Not quite island, not quite mainland, southern Evia has never been one of those poster-pinup places, nor has it been promoted by big-name tour operators. Luckily for those in search of unspoiled Greece, neither jet-setters nor lager louts have stumbled upon the region. Even so, Karystos now boasts a variety of pleasant hotels to complement its varied charms, many of which sit right on the coast overlooking the sandy coves.
The town itself sits at the back of a bay so large that the sunbathers scattered here and there can feel like they own the beach. It stretches east all the way round the tip of Cape Kafireas, more commonly known as the Cavo d’Oro, interrupted by only a few outcroppings of land. To the west, the beach is much straighter, with the section starting from town seemingly endless. Aside from their stunning backdrop, the beachside tavernas Anemones and To Kyma serve fish and seafood that is to die for.
But beaches are commonplace on Greek islands, as are beachside tavernas. What sets southern Evia apart are its mountains. Concealed among the trees on the lower slopes are Turkish fountains, old stone bridges, and ornate Byzantine churches, not to mention the most obvious attraction – the wind-battered Venetian Castello Rosso and an impressive fragment of Roman aqueduct just below it. You can drive to these sights and the shaded villages near them – Myli, Grabia, Kalyvia, Agia Triada – but even more rewarding would be to follow a series of walks suggested by wine producers Pavlos and Marianne Karacostas at Ktima Montofoli.
Owners of the Cellier chain of wine stores and the restaurant Le Bistro in Athens, the Karacostas have made their estate one of the most beautiful in all of Greece, incorporating Roman ruins and a Turkish pasha’s garden. Here you can taste their award-winning dessert wine and dry white Myrtilos, while you pick up a walking map as well as a city plan and regional map, annotated both in Greek and in English. (Call 2224 25951 to make an appointment and ask directions.)
Nevertheless, one extraordinary walk that is not shown on the map that the couple will provide is the one that follows the path up Mt. Ohi to the famous Dragon House (Drakospito) near the peak. This squat, single-roomed relic, roofed with plaques only giants could have set in place, has been dated to the 8th century BC. Archaeologists say it may have been a temple to Hera or Hercules. A sight stranger still is the massive marble columns scattered on the mountainside, some only half-hewn from the original rock. This part of Ohi was quarried by Romans, but it appears that, for whatever reason, the enterprise went abruptly out of business.
Karystos has more than its fair share of good eateries. Octopus limbs dangle from railings, providing the waterfront taverna awnings with extravagant tassles. Marino’s taverna is a favorite with locals, while Kavo d’Oro has wonderful ready-cooked traditional dishes for lunch, and an assortment of fresh fish in the evening. As you stroll about the back streets of the town, look for local sausages, cheeses like touloumotyri and kefalograviera, and best of all, handmade pastelli (sesame-honey bars) at Evangelos Hondronastos’s tiny shop.
A Venetian fort houses exhibitions in summer and the Yokalion cultural center-museum-library opposite is also worth a visit before you take to the hills again for a cool taverna. Try Yeroplatanos at Myli or Dimitris at Aetos. Karystos is famous for its meat, especially delicately flavored lamb and kid.
Additional Information:
Hotels
- Apollon Suites (A class), at the eastern edge of town, with its own beach and pool
- Karystion (B class), closer to the center, but near a park overlooking the bay
- Windmills Studio (C class), about 800 m west of town, near the main Karystos beach are all excellent bases from which to explore the region
For information and reservations, call Astra Hotels, 210 964 7112/4.
South Evia Tours (SET), tel. 2224 026200,029010, on the main square can help organize hikes, caique trips, jeep rentals and ferry tickets.
Getting there:
Frequent ferries leave from Rafina or Agia Marina (beyond Schinias beach) for the one-hour voyage to Marmari. From there, it's about a 20 minutes’ drive to Karystos. Buses and taxis meet the boats.
